Daily Signals 24.12.2024

Signals

LS:N Global’s exploration of fashion in 2024 delved into everything from decolonising cowboy fashion to dissecting the success of Ssense in a challenging retail environment.

The Trend: Decolonised Cowboy Core

Gap in collaboration with Dapper Dan, US

Black musicians, designers, film-makers and artists are reshaping the American cowboy archetype, sparking a cultural renaissance with enduring impact. 

The shift gained momentum in 2016 with The Studio Museum in Harlem’s ground-breaking Black Cowboy exhibition. This was followed by a pivotal moment in 2019 when queer Black artist Lil Nas X released the genre-defying hit Old Town Road, shattering stereotypes and re-imagining cowboy imagery. 

From music and fashion runways to cinema screens, Black and Indigenous artists are celebrating their cowboy heritage with new-found vigour, championing a vibrant and inclusive take on the yeehaw movement. 

Fashion has not remained untouched. Beyoncé’s rodeo-themed Ivy Park and Adidas collection in 2021 fused Western style with streetwear, while Willy Chavarría’s collection at New York Fashion Week 2024 explored the notion of Americanness from the outskirts, celebrating the identities of queer, immigrant and all other Americans who are under-represented in Uncle Sam’s conventional visual narratives.  

Find more insights in our Decolonised Cowboy Core microtrend report. 

The Big Idea: Brand Innovation Debrief: Ssense

Amid a tough landscape for multi-brand luxury e-tailers, Ssense stands out by blending emerging talents, legacy brands, pop culture, data and strategic discounts. Founded in 2003 by the Atallah brothers, the Montreal-based retailer attracts 100m monthly page views, primarily from a young audience, with its innovative e-commerce approach and cultural cachet. 

Ssense’s social media strategy uses memes and pop culture to engage Gen Z and Millennials, adapting quickly to trends while spotlighting products. Recognised as a tastemaker brand, it discovered designers like Marine Serre early on, as noted in our Luxury States: New Codes of Luxury 2024–2025 macrotrend report.

Its biannual-ish sales, offering up to 70% off brands like Maison Margiela and Rick Owens, have become a cultural event, cementing its relevance among fashion enthusiasts. Now, Ssense is expanding its physical retail presence, promising fresh in-person experiences to complement its digital success.

Find more about Ssense’s recipe for success in our Brand Innovation Debrief: Ssense report.

Ssense and Diesel Brown Exclusive Capsule, EU and UK

The Campaign: Eckhaus Latta trades classic fashion show for a dinner party

Eckhaus Latta spring/summer 2025, US

 In an era when the relevance of fashion shows is being questioned, American brand Eckhaus Latta delivered an alternative that felt refreshingly personal and authentic at New York Fashion Week in September 2024. Instead of a traditional runway, the design duo hosted an intimate dinner in a Tribeca loft, inviting close friends to style themselves in their Spring collection. 

The low-key atmosphere quickly shifted when comedian Kate Berlant announced: ‘Oh, you thought this was just a dinner. Wrong,’ as guests, including artist Ella Emhoff, took turns strutting down a makeshift runway. 

The experience emphasised the freedom that comes with independent creativity. ‘It’s not like we are beholden to some sort of board,’ said Zoe Latta, co-founder of the brand, highlighting their intention to disrupt the fashion show format. 

This approach reflects the evolving relationship between fashion and community, blending casual celebration with the showcase of new designs.

The Viewpoint: Premium Fashion’s Comeback

Zara in collaboration with Nanushka, Spain and Hungary Zara in collaboration with Nanushka, Spain and Hungary

The premium contemporary fashion category is making a strong comeback as a chic, affordable alternative to luxury’s ever-rising prices, bridging the gap between cost and quality. 

After a post-pandemic surge, growth in the luxury sector has stalled. In 2024, the global personal luxury market declined for the first time since 2008, dropping 2% from its record high of £307.7bn ($387bn, €369bn) in 2023 (source: Forbes). Rising living costs and luxury’s escalating price points have left major players like Burberry and Gucci grappling with slowing demand. 

As The Guardian’s Edward Helmore observes, luxury may be entering its 'flop era', with a market slowdown in China and the US, coupled with the fading effects of pandemic-era spending. Consumers’ frustration with inflated prices and static product quality is exacerbating the decline. 

In contrast, the premium contemporary category is positioned to thrive, particularly in times of inflation and economic uncertainty. Straddling value for money and quality, it appeals to shoppers who baulk at luxury prices but refuse to compromise on craftsmanship or style. 

The allure of premium contemporary lies in its versatility: luxury brands can expand their reach and maintain trendsetting influence, while high street labels can collaborate with high-end talent to elevate their offerings and unlock new revenue streams.

Read more about this shift in our Premium Fashion’s Comeback viewpoint report.

The Space: Collina Strada spring/summer 2025 encourages reconnection with nature

Collina Strada spring/summer 2025 Touch Grass, New York Fashion Week, US

In September 2024, in New York’s Marble Cemetery, Collina Strada’s spring/summer 2025 showcase delivered a colourful and climate-conscious reminder to ‘touch grass’, inviting attendees to reconnect with nature amid today’s chaotic world. 

The show, staged in the heart of the East Village, offered a brief escape from the outside world’s perils, as creative director Hillary Taymour transformed the venue into a serene and green utopia. 

Drawing inspiration from the viral ‘touch grass’ meme, Taymour’s collection embodied a playful yet poignant call for balance, urging people to ground themselves in nature.

‘The world feels like a battlefield in so many ways right now, and I think we can all reconnect and find that peaceful centre by touching grass,’ explained Taymour. 

Sustainability advocates made notable appearances, including Brooklyn’s famed Green Lady and designer Mara Hoffman. In true Collina Strada fashion, the collection embraced whimsy and environmental consciousness, with models donning floor-length, green-tipped hair and grass clippings on their ankles. 

The finale featured a model pushing a vintage lawnmower while wearing pieces from Taymour’s new sunglasses line, underlining the theme of reconnecting with nature through simple, everyday actions. The spring/summer 2025 collection tastefully blends femininity, sustainability and fashion with a fresh perspective on climate-conscious living.

Download the Future Forecast 2025 report

Now that you know what shaped 2024, discover what’s on the horizon. Download our Future Forecast 2025 report comprising 50 new trends across 10 key consumer sectors, insights from our analysts and interviews with global innovators.

Not a member of LS:N Global?

The Future Sessions Bundle, which includes both our Future Forecast 2025 and Future Five 2025 PDF reports, is available to purchase from The Future Laboratory shop. Interested in becoming a member? Learn more here

Previous Daily Signals Articles
Cardi B joins formula brand Bobbie to fight feeding shame

Daily Signals

Cardi B joins formula brand Bobbie to fight feeding shame

Baby formula brand Bobbie has appointed rapper Cardi B as its new chief confidence officer in a campaign that redefines how parents navigate feedin...
Health And Wellness : Parenting : Marketing
Denmark launches national drive to close the gender health gap

Daily Signals

Denmark launches national drive to close the gender health gap

The Danish government is investing £18.7m (DKr160m, $21.9m, €21.4m) over four years to establish a National Centre for Research in Women’s Health –...
Health & Wellness : Women's Health : Policy
Stat: Gen Z lead surge in sales of hybrid beauty-wellness products

Daily Signals

Stat: Gen Z lead surge in sales of hybrid beauty-wellness products

British consumers are increasingly turning to hybrid beauty-wellness products, combining cosmetic and health benefits, according to new data from C...
Health And Wellness : Beauty : Statistic
Moncler redefines warmth in campaign with Robert De Niro and Al Pacino

Daily Signals

Moncler redefines warmth in campaign with Robert De Niro and Al Pacino

Italian luxury brand Moncler unites cinematic legends Robert De Niro and Al Pacino for Warmer Together, their first such collaboration. The series ...
Luxury : Fashion : Campaign
Stat: UK shoppers experience bargain hunting highs

Daily Signals

Stat: UK shoppers experience bargain hunting highs

According to new research from VoucherCodes, 86% of UK consumers experience a dopamine rush when they find a bargain, suggesting that sho...
Retail : Consumer Behaviour : Statistic
A new era for golf and hospitality begins as Mad Swans launches in the Mendips

Daily Signals

A new era for golf and hospitality begins as Mad Swans launches in the Mendips

Mad Swans, the innovative countryside destination by Longshot, has opened its doors on the UK's Mendip Hills, offering a fresh take on sports-...
Sports : Golf : Travel
Dutch Design Week 2025: kidult aesthetics and serious play

Daily Signals

Dutch Design Week 2025: kidult aesthetics and serious play

On a rainy day in Eindhoven, the design capital of The Netherlands, artists and designers showed us something that really makes us human, that sets...
Design : Dutch Design Week : Play
The Future Laboratory presents The Synthocene Era at TheIndustry.fashion summit

Daily Signals

The Future Laboratory presents The Synthocene Era at TheIndustry.fashion summit

At Nobu Hotel in Marylebone, London, TheIndustry.fashion’s Fashion Retail Reset Summit brought together global executives, industry experts and tho...
Fashion : Global Events : The Future Laboratory
Foresight Friday: Angus Cross, head of business development

Daily Signals

Foresight Friday: Angus Cross, head of business development

Every Friday, The Future Laboratory team offers an end-of-week wrap-up of the topics, issues, ideas and virals we’re all talking about. This week, ...
Foresight Friday : Mobility : Fashion
Stat: UK regenerative coffee sales triple as climate pressures mount

Daily Signals

Stat: UK regenerative coffee sales triple as climate pressures mount

Regenerative coffee sales in the UK have nearly tripled in 2025, signalling a shift toward sustainability in the nation’s £3.6bn ($4.8bn, €4.5...
Coffee : Food : Statistic
You have 2 free News articles remaining. Sign up to LS:N Global to get unlimited access to all articles.
BECOME A MEMBER
SIGN IN