Signals

Italy – In what can only be described as a rare confluence of fashion and science, three notable runways juxtaposed the fantasy of the former and the rigour of the latter. 

Taking inspiration from 4th-century female mathematician and astronomer Hypatia, Max Mara’s spring/summer 2025 collection gave a trigonometric twist to tailoring with crisp white shirts, fluid slinky dresses and the brand’s signature camel coats. ‘Why do people dismiss science and maths so much when there is such a strong parallel between what a scientist does and what we in design do: imposing order on chaos?’ wondered creative director Ian Griffith backstage (source: Vogue).

Designer Daniel Del Core took a more direct approach with his collection, A Day At The Lab, in which a scientist transforms into a fashion fanatic after working hard in a laboratory all day. The models wore sheer white lab-like coats and carried books written by female authors, including Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and Hannah Arendt’s The Human Condition. As the collection progressed, models traded books and lab coats for leather handbags and delicate floor-length gowns.

Prada challenged the influence of algorithms to highlight the importance of personal style and individuality in a landscape in which Instagram and TikTok algorithms often dictate what individuals should like. Reminiscent of an exquisite corpse, the venue was twisted into hairpin bends to prevent the audience from seeing or expecting what was coming next. Models strutted the runway in perforated skirts, S&M rings, trompe l’’oeil belts, ultra-mini bandeaus and sci-fi glasses and visors inspired by superheroes and their opposing villains. 

Italy – As the luxury industry grapples with a slowdown and economic downturn, brands find it safer to look back to the past with archival mining and heritage inspiration instead. Roberto Cavalli’s spring/summer 2025 collection paid homage to the brand’s founder, who passed away in April 2024. The show closed with seven iconic archival runway looks that encapsulated his impact on fashion and pop culture in the early 2000s. 

Gucci went back to the swinging 1960s for its collection, Casual Grandeur. For spring/summer 2025, the brand drew inspiration from the summer style of Jackie Kennedy Onassis. Sabato de Sarno re-interpreted her gloves as rock and roll fingerless ones adorned with gold hardware. The former US First Lady also inspired head scarves, wide-brimmed sun hats and oversized sunglasses. Japanese painter Nami Yokoyama reimagined a vintage Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag – blending legacy with modernity. According to Hypebeast, Gucci’s treasured Horsebit motif drew eyes not only to its 73 Bucket Bag but also a legion of footwear: platforms, creepers, ballerinas and ankle boots included.

Similarly, Donatella Versace revisited the hedonistic days of the 1990s with mixed prints, mismatched separates and dopamine dressing. ‘I feel like I need to bring positivity,’ she told The Guardian. ‘This is a terrible moment. War is tearing the world apart. What else can I do but try and bring joy?’

Also sending throwback looks down the runway were Dolce & Gabbana, which recreated pop singer Madonna’s iconic styles. On social media, fashion enthusiasts were quick to credit Jean Paul Gaultier as the first to dress Madonna in these iconic looks.