Need to Know
20 : 03 : 18

20.03.2018 Cosmoprof 2018 : Beauty : Skincare

Bodycare, Japanese beauty and hyaluronic acid all had strong showings at international beauty trade show, Cosmoprof 2018.

1. ​The body is back

Body Active, Comfort Zone Body Active, Comfort Zone
Body Active, Comfort Zone Body Active, Comfort Zone

Highlighting the benefits of a body-centric approach to skincare, brands focused on effective body-boosting solutions and ritualised applications.

Comfort Zone presented its new Body Active line, which consists of three products to be used before, during and after exercise. Incorporating natural ingredients such as yellow clay, plankton extract and polyphenols from maca, the line is said to aid muscle toning and recovery.

New Italian brand Oliorito presented its range of body oils made from natural ingredients such as myyrh, hemp oil and saffron flowers, and which are inspired by Etruscan traditions, an ancient Tuscan civilisation. The branding incorporates various icons that instruct users on how to apply the oils, which includes the use of a dry brush. From brushing and bathing to spreading – consumers are encouraged to slow down and embrace the sensory experience.

Meanwhile, another brand Hemp Care, presented it Dry Body Oil, which is designed to transform consumers’ daily beauty ritual into a convenient yet highly effective moment. The product is notable for its fast absorption into the skin.

2. ​Novel hyaluronic applications

Dual Moist Hyaluron Essence, Olivarriel Dual Moist Hyaluron Essence, Olivarriel
Olivarriel Instagram image Olivarriel Instagram image
Dual Moist Hyaluron Essence, Olivarriel Dual Moist Hyaluron Essence, Olivarriel

Hyaluronic acid has been used in moisturising product for years, but at Cosmoprof, brands re-invented the beauty staple with a series of new formulations and cross-category products that bring this moisture-boosting ingredient to the fore.

South Korean brand Olivarrier presented its Dual Moist Hyaluron Essence featuring Triple Hyaluron made from fermented corn, beans and yeast, making this essence three times more effective at combatting dehydrated skin than traditional hyaluronic acid.

Re-inventing itself in haircare, Maxxelle’s Hair Recovery Serum uses a high concentration of hyaluronic acid to nourish the hair. The company formulated a smaller molecule of hyaluronic acid, so that it can ‘be easily absorbed by the hair,’ according to a spokesperson for the brand.

In colour cosmetics, Latvian brand Mádara presented its new Hyaluronic Anti-pollution CC Cream to ensure multiple skincare benefits. The combination of UVA/UVB sunscreen and hyaluronic acid shields the skin from urban pollutants to protect the skin microbiome and prevent clogged pores and inflammation.

3.​ Celebrating local ingredients

Lovekins, Australia Lovekins, Australia

Every year the number of brands at the show touting their organic and natural credentials seems to grow. This year, several companies attending were celebrating their locally found ingredients as a unique selling point.

Australian brand Lovekins showed its line of baby skincare that features Kakadu Plum, the fruit of a flowering plant found in Northern Australia. The fruit is known to be a very high source of vitamin C and has been used medicinally by indigenous Australians for thousands of years. The brand also previewed its new Mother Care range, due to be launched in July 2018, which features native ingredients such as Rosella Flower.

South Korean line I’m From by Wishtrend makes local part of its branding. For each product, it lists precisely where in Korea the star ingredient has been sourced. For instance, the Volcanic Mask has ‘I’m from Island Jeju, Korea’ on the front of the pack, while the Ginseng Serum packaging reads ‘I’m from Geum River, Korea’.

4. ​Skincare for the scalp

In the haircare segment, several stalls made the connection between hair health, scalp health and skin health. ‘People tend to forget the skin on our scalp is the same skin as the rest of our body,’ explained Mimi Chien, deputy general manager of Aromase, a Taiwanese scalp care brand that uses natural ingredients to address irritation issues such as dandruff, dermatitis and psoriasis.

Davines Group, which is known for its eponymous salon brand featured a new launch, the Circle Chronicles. The line of five masks is designed to treat hair in a similar way to how we treat our skin, thinking of haircare as part of our lifestyle as opposed to only treating hair based on type. Types of masks include: The Spotlight Circle for a night out, when hair needs extra brightness; The Quick-Fix Circle, a mask that only needs three minutes to offer ‘express moisturisation’ and is enriched with hyaluronic acid; and The Purity Circle, a detoxifying mask that removes scalp impurities caused by atmospheric pollution. Similar to skincare masks, the line is made for multimasking.

The Circle Chronicles, Davines The Circle Chronicles, Davines

5. ​J-beauty innovations on display

Warew, Japan Warew, Japan
Warew, Japan Warew, Japan
Warew, Japan Warew, Japan

While South Korean beauty companies had a larger delegation, the smaller Japanese contingent featured several products with novel innovations for Western consumers.

Anti-ageing skincare brand Warew, which is aiming to enter the European market for the first time, featured its 3-step line that includes an emulsion – a lotion that sits between a moisturiser and a serum and is made of an emulsified blend of sea water and essential oils. The brand also previewed its new line Susuh, containing spirulina, which will be out later this year.

Also new to the European market, Japanese brand Kohakuhada features amber as its key ingredient. Using an extract of the gemstone throughout its product line, the ingredient is said to stimulate hyaluronic acid production in the skin and speed the metabolism rate of our skin cells.

Another innovation by Japanese company Nissha was Shot Mode, a product that takes the popular non-invasive cosmetic procedure microneedling and puts it on a patch. Scientists at Nissha have developed a dissolving ‘microneedle’ made of serum that penetrates the skin overnight through the patch.

Thought starter: Why beauty brands need a holistic approach to diversity

In a talk presented by Euromonitor about better aligning brand strategies to new consumer values, Bridgette Howard spoke about the need to ensure that diversity is not just a marketing ploy.

Howard, the founder of Washington DC-based beauty incubator Parlour West Ventures, said that brands must embed inclusivity not just in their campaigns, but in their working culture.

‘Beauty is one of the most exclusive industries,’ she said. ‘Inclusion is a strategic business decision. Brands should prioritise diversity across their corporate team, their influencers, their content and their product.’

Howard highlighted brands such as Milk Makeup and Fenty Beauty, which are now leading the charge in inclusivity.

For more on changing consumer mindsets, see our Consumer 2020 report and look out for our forthcoming interview with Bridgette Howard on the need for vertically integrated inclusivity.

My Face. My Rules by Sleek MakeUP, UK My Face. My Rules by Sleek MakeUP, UK