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Horse play: Throup unveils New Object Research

09 : 01 : 2013 Silhouette : Full Collection : New Object Research

London – After six and a half years of research, experimentation and meticulous development, fashion designer Aitor Throup has revealed his New Object Research collection at London Men’s Fashion Week. This is his first full ready-to-wear collection and the culmination of his work to date.

Aitor Throup, New Object Research Aitor Throup, New Object Research
Aitor Throup, New Object Research Aitor Throup, New Object Research
Aitor Throup, New Object Research Aitor Throup, New Object Research

Throup does not do new. Everything he designs is a development from studies that aim to perfect his expression of ‘functionality as a vehicle for justification and narrative’. A jacket with exaggerated lines and pockets, for example, is designed to simulate the position of the rider while on horseback, and to morph into the horse itself.

Garments on show were dark in colour and mood, with bonded waterproof fabrics sewn together in Throup’s trademark edge-to-edge technique, minimising waste and bulk in the silhouette.

To read more about Throup’s refusal to follow the traditional fashion calendar to focus on a slow, meaningful design process, read our Inform interview with him and our Portfolio feature.