The increasing popularity of craft beer is proof that a mature beer sector need not be a flat market. But the rise of craft beer – defined as experimental beer drunk in a variety of glassware and measures in modern, fashionable bars – is fuelling a divergent trend in beer drinking. Men are increasingly seeking tradition in their beer. They don’t want the unisex appeal, stemmed glasses and eclectic ingredients of craft beer – at least not all of the time. They want quality, heritage and provenance. They want their beer to be masculine. And they want to be blokes again.
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