Fashion

The key shifts and emerging talent that are driving change within the fashion industry globally

Need to Know
22 : 05 : 19

A chewy take on collagen supplements, L’Oréal and Alibaba launch an AI-powered app for acne treatment and mental health services are limited for Arab youth.

Fenty is a disruptive new luxury house

FENTY by Robyn Rihanna Fenty

Paris – Luxury conglomerate LVMH is working with Rihanna to launch a luxury fashion house from scratch.

Making its debut this spring, Fenty will be developed by Rihanna and will feature ready-to-wear apparel, shoes and accessories. The brand hopes to disrupt the luxury sector not only as the first fashion house launched under LVMH by a woman of colour, but also by focusing entirely on direct-to-consumer (DTC) online sales.

According to Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, the group has brought together a talented and multicultural team to support the launch of the Fenty Maison. ‘Designing a line like this with LVMH is an incredibly special moment for us,’ says Rihanna. ‘Mr Arnault has given me a unique opportunity to develop a fashion house in the luxury sector, with no artistic limits.’

The partnership signals a wider shift not only in the mindset and expectations of luxury consumers but also brands, who are embracing new distribution models. For more on the evolution of luxury, explore our dedicated luxury vertical.

Nike creates an open-source sustainability guide

Nike Circular Design Guide Nike Circular Design Guide
Nike Circular Design Guide Nike Circular Design Guide

London – The sportswear brand's circular design guide was created to provide apparel designers and brands with a toolkit for sustainable practices.

The guide, Circularity: Guiding the Future of Design, was created in collaboration with students and staff from Central Saint Martins school of design in London, with inspiration from Global Fashion Agenda. Acting as a call to action for the apparel industry, its supporting workbook provides 10 key principles for brands striving to become more sustainable, with a focus on material choices, disassembly, refurbishment and circular packaging.

For brands, these principles are highlighted as starting points from which to reconsider their future design process. ‘We have an obligation to consider the complete design solution, including how we source it, make it, use it, return it and, ultimately, how we re-imagine it,’ says John Hoke, Nike's chief design officer. In a similar vein, brands such as Volcom are launching new initiatives to support more sustainable production.

A collagen supplement in a soft chew format

London – Ellactiva’s Collagen& range rethinks traditional collagen supplements with a range of fruity soft chews.

While powders, pills, shots and gels are all established formulas for collagen supplements, Collagen& delivers the protein in a unique, on-the-go format. Launched by UK-based consumer health company Oxford Pharmascience, the format contains readily absorbable bioactive collagen peptides, which the brand promises will provide visible skin benefits in four weeks, as well as vitamin C, minerals and prebiotic fibres to maximise collagen synthesis.

The line includes three varieties to support different functionalities: orange-flavoured Collagen& Energy, blackcurrant-flavoured Collagen& Immunity, and caramel-flavoured Collagen& Healthy Bones. ‘The appeal of the product isn’t just the fact that it is proven to provide the optimum, effective level of our bioactive collagen peptides, it is the overriding scientific and health benefits that the three different chews are recognised to provide,’ explains Marcelo Bravo, founder of Ellactiva. With its holistic approach to beauty and wellbeing, the company taps into the Total Beauty Market.

Collagen& Collagen&

L’Oréal launches AI-driven screening for acne

Effaclar Spotspan by La Roche-Posay, Singapore

China – The global cosmetics company has joined forces with Alibaba Group to create a mobile application designed to diagnose acne.

Effaclar Spotscan has been created to help consumers with acne but limited access to dermatologists. The app, which can identify the user’s type of acne by analysing selfies, combines insights and research from L’Oréal brand La Roche-Posay with Alibaba’s machine-learning technologies. It will make its debut on Alibaba’s Tmall and Taobao e-commerce apps in June, before launching in further markets through other providers.

After uploading three selfies, the app generates a test report with a diagnosis and personalised skincare advice, including product combinations for treatment and where to buy them online. If the technology detects severe skin problems, it can also put the user in touch with a skincare expert for a one-to-one consultation.

As demand for personalisation and customisation in the beauty sector increases, brands are using artificial intelligence (AI) to power apps and devices that analyse users’ skin health. For more, read our At-home Analysis microtrend.

Stat: Arab youth struggle to access mental healthcare

While many young Arabs say they are familiar with mental health concerns, a majority find access to treatment is scarce, according to findings from the Arab Youth Survey, conducted by Dubai-based PR firm ASDA’A BCW.

In the Levant region in particular, the number of respondents who say it is difficult to get quality care for issues such as anxiety and depression rises to 81%. Meanwhile, about one third of young Arabs say they know someone suffering from mental health issues and almost half say there is still a stigma around seeking help for mental health problems.

In our Emerging Youth Market: UAE, we explore how young people in the region are kick-starting much-needed conversations about gender and mental health through self-expression and anonymous social media platforms.

Thought-starter: How can luxury hotels combat over-tourism?

Liran Wizman, founder of Europe Hotels Private Collection, examines how luxury hotels can avoid exacerbating over-tourism by engaging locals.

With hotels in Amsterdam, Berlin, Hamburg and Ibiza, the Sir Hotels brand aims to celebrate the cities in which it is located while empowering local residents. ‘At the beginning, I didn’t intend to create a chain, but I wanted to create one hotel that would be very special; really local and connected to where it was. I didn’t even want to call it a hotel. For me, it’s a venue, it’s a part of the city,’ explains Wizman.

Taking a more personal approach to hospitality, the brand’s Explore programme connects guests with local hosts to provide fresh perspectives. 'When you go to a hotel, you want to experience the city from the inside out,’ he continues.

‘With Sir Hotels, we have great local residents who take you around the city. Basically, what people want is not to be a tourist. It’s not nice to be a tourist – we want our guests to discover the secrets of a city. For us, countries are not important any more, it’s about cities. And what drives those cities is local creativity.’

Read the full Q&A here.

Sir Hotels Sir Hotels

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